FASHION & CULTURE
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
AUDIE UMALI
PHOTOGRAPHY
KEVIN SINCLAIR
Shirley wears, Total look ASHLYN, pumps REIKE NEN, earrings PAMELA LOVE. Ling wears: Total look ASHLYN, pumps PRADA, earrings LADY GREY Amy wears: Total look ASHLYN, shoes CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS, jewelry LADY GREY.
CATWALKERS
The most successful models in the '90s were renowned for their runway walks. Each model had to perfect its conventional swagger from fierce stomps to hip swings, which ultimately catapulted them into international success and catwalk notoriety. Amy Wesson, Ling Tan, and Shirley Mallmann are known for their statuesque frame and powerful runway presence. There's a reason they were the catwalkers and cover girls of the 1990s. These models were considered celebrities in their own right, with Ling Tan appearing in George Michael's hit song "Fast Love" and being the subject of a twelve-page feature story in Italian Vogue. Meanwhile, Amy Wesson was featured on the cover for the Smashing Pumpkins' 1998 video, "Adore.” She starred in advertising campaigns for Thierry Mugler's Angel perfume and ads for Christian Dior, Versace, Calvin Klein, and Valentino. Finally, Shirley Mallmann took fashion by storm when her silhouette was immortalized in the form of Jean Paul Gaultier's "Classique" perfume bottle and was named celebrity of the year by E! Entertainment in 1999. But even catwalk legends had to start somewhere. Below, we're taking a look back at three '90s superstars who defined that decade.
Ling wears: Dress ASHLYN, earrings LADY GREY. Amy wears: Jacket ASHLYN, shirt ASHLYN. Opposite: Blazer and pants JASON WU, mules REIKE NEN, bangle LADY GREY.
Shirt CROCS, blazer IRO, pants TIBI, pumps REIKE NEN, earrings PAMELA LOVE.
ling tan
(The Model CoOp)
Born and raised in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysian. Ling Tan is the first supermodel from southeast Asia to participate in hundreds of fashion shows as well as being photographed by top fashion photographers such as Irving Penn, Mario Testino, Peter Lindbergh, and Richard Avedon. Tan has also worked with various top designers, including Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, and Chanel, and was the first Asian model to walk the runway of the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show in 1996. After such an impressive career, we were curious to know which images mattered to her the most. Below, Ling tells us about her most meaningful moments as a model.
Vestal Magazine __ Your career path by now is legendary but give me a brief overview of how you started and how your career took off.
Ling Tan __ I was born and raised in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, where I grew up watching my mother mend and make clothes as a seamstress. I loved reading fashion magazines which ultimately got me inspired to be a model. When I was very little, I would show my mother pictures of dresses in magazines and she would make them for me. I later trained as a runway model in Kuala Lumpur. During my first week on the job modeling, an American advertising executive looking for a new face for a Tiger Beer TV commercial spotted me in the Shangri-La Hotel lobby. He asked me to go for a casting and this led to my first TV commercial job, which became an award-winning TV commercial. After that, I was in a contest for Asian Model Search 1994 in Kuala Lumpur where I won the 1st runner-up position. That is when a Malaysian fashion designer by the name of Zang Toi came from New York to be one of the five judges. After the contest ended I met Zang Toi backstage and he told me I should go to New York to be a model. A few weeks later I traveled to New York City. I had no model agent, I did not speak English well, and I was late for New York Fashion Week casting. I called Zang Toi, who told me that he had already cast the models and fitted his new collection but invited me to stop by his showroom anyway to say hi. When he saw me, he asked to try on a few clothes from his new collection. He loved how I looked in his designs and decided to change his plan for the show so I could walk down his runway in three of his dresses. I was the only model in his show without an agent. After the fashion show, the next day I signed with IMG Model Agency and that’s how my modeling career took off.
Vestal __ These days, it's all about models using social media to build a platform of their own, which obviously didn't exist in the late '90s and early 2000s. How were you able to build that platform for yourself?
Ling Tan __ In the late 1990s and early 2000s my agencies arranged casting for all the major fashion designers in New York, London, Milan, Rome, and Paris. I modeled their clothes, walked their runways, and was photographed by major fashion photographers and magazines. I did not need to build a platform for myself. With every show, campaign, and magazine spread my name started circulating in the industry. Keep in mind that during that era, it was all about the Supermodels and the covers and campaigns that they appeared in. Today it's more about influencers and celebrities such as the Kardashians or the Hadids.
Vestal __ What are you most proud of in your career so far?
Ling Tan __ I’m most proud of working with talented photographers such as Richard Avedon, Peter Lindbergh, Irving Penn, Steven Meisel and great fashion designers such as Alexander McQueen, Alber Elbaz, Giorgio Armani, John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld, Tom Ford, Thierry Mugler, Yves Saint Laurent.
Vestal __ How was it to be an Asian model in the industry when you started and how has the perception of diversity shifted in the modeling industry since then?
Ling Tan __ I was one of the first Asian models to work with major European and American fashion designers as well as photographers. They were all very kind, considerate, and respectful to me. Since that time the diversity of models has increased dramatically. Being one of the first Asian models, I'm proud to have helped pave the way for all the other Asian models that followed.
Total look KENZO, loafers REIKE NEN. Opposite: Total look MARGOT92, necklace COMMON ERA, rings LADY GREY.
Vestal __ Who would you say is the photographer that changed your career?
Ling Tan __ I would say the photographer that changed my career was Richard Avedon who photographed me for the Pirelli Calendar.
Vestal __ What is the best part about being a model with a sustainable career?
Ling Tan __ The best part about having a sustainable career is that I have remained active, as well as physically and mentally healthy.
Vestal __ Your ultimate tip for good skin?
Ling Tan __ My ultimate tip for good skin is eating rainbow colors of fruits and vegetables. Drink hot water with honey and lemon. No alcohol, coffee, soft drinks, and smoking.
Vestal __ Now that we’ve gone through everything that the pandemic has thrown at us, what are your goals for 2022? How have you been able to find peace after these last tumultuous years?
Ling Tan __ First of all, the pandemic will still not be over in 2021 so we will need to learn how to live with it in 2022. That means we still need to wear masks every day when we go out, wash hands frequently and avoid crowded areas. If we don’t want to get COVID, we will need to continue doing everything we were doing in 2020.
Vestal __ How do you stay physically and mentally healthy?
Ling Tan __ I stay healthy physically by eating healthy, exercising, and staying active. As for my mental health, my garden is my zen oasis. Gardening is my form of meditation. I also find that sleeping well, laughing a lot, and adopting animals from shelters all help me stay healthy.
Vestal __ What advice would you give someone looking to follow in your footsteps?
Ling Tan __ The advice I would give is to take great care of your skin, teeth, and hair. Learn English. Be on time. Be professional.
Total look JASON WU, mules REIKE NEN, bangle LADY GREY.
SHIRLEY MALLMANN
(The Model CoOp)
In the early ’90s, Shirley Mallmann was considered the first Brazilian top model bridging the gap between glamour and sex appeal of the new decade. Known for her unique runway walk, she has walked for countless designers and featured in advertisements for top brands like Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Chanel, Christian Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Gianni Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, Chloé, Fendi, Givenchy, and the list goes on. But, she is best known for her work with Jean Paul Gaultier, who immortalized her silhouette in his first perfume“Classique,” in the 2002 ad as well as appearing in the Pirelli Calendar photographed by Herb Ritts. She is also an ambassador of the international Sea Shepherd Conservation Society, which protects marine animals. Here she takes us through some of her most memorable fashion moments with Herb Ritts and her collaboration with John Paul Gaultier.
Vestal Magazine __ Before becoming a model you worked at a shoe factory in Rio Grande do Sul — what made you decide to give it up and move to São Paulo to pursue a career in fashion?
Shirley Mallmann __ At the time, I was struggling to figure out what I wanted to do in my life. There weren’t many options and the idea of trying something new and exciting was what really drove me. I thought to myself, what have I got to lose?!
Vestal __ Did you always want to be a model?
Shirley __ My knowledge of fashion was very limited, only what I would see in some magazines and TV. It looked amazing, but I never imagined it could be possible. At the time, there weren’t any Brazilian Top Models, so we really didn’t know what a model career even was. There was also no Google. But, after doing my first test shoot and getting my first small runway job I knew I loved it, and I had to try to pursue it further.
Vestal__ Take us back to when you started working with photographers like Steven Meisel. How was working with him and what did you learn from him on set?
Shirley __ He’s amazing. I feel so fortunate to have worked with him so early in my career because I learned so much. I didn’t even speak English very well, but what struck me was his vision. In the morning, before even getting to the studio, he had already talked to everyone on the set, given directions, and told them what he envisioned for the shoot. And once on set, he directed us so well, how to move, how to work with the lights, the wind. He’s truly a genius.
Vestal__ How do you choose your modeling jobs today?
Shirley __ Once I became a parent, my priorities changed. My family is the most important thing to me. But I also love my job, so today, I aim to divide my time between my work and my family, along with other projects that I have. But when my kids need me, they come first.
Vestal__ You are the ambassador for the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society which protects marine animals. When did you realize that you could use your platform as a springboard for issues that are important to you?
Total look 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, earrings LADY GREY.
Shirley __ When I was young and starting my career, it was a whirlwind. There was very little time for personal projects or to focus on anything besides my career. As I got older, that changed and I fell into a routine. Then I started to become more aware of the world around me and I wanted to help. It’s in my nature, and whenever I see something or hear of something that I think I could make a difference, I try.
Vestal__ What has been your boldest fashion statement?
Shirley __ I honestly have no idea. But I’ve never been shy at my job, and I’ve always enjoyed creating something different, that would cause some kind of reaction. It’s fun. Whenever a photographer said, for example, today we’re giving you a completely different look, a short black wig, or something outrageous, I would get really excited and try to get into character.
Vestal Who would you say is the photographer who changed your career?
Shirley __ Ellen Von Unwerth. She shot me in Brazil for my very first big campaign and a few weeks later called me to New York for an American Vogue shoot. That’s when I got my passport and left Brazil for the very first time. She’s like my godmother.
Vestal__ What is your life motto?
Shirley __ I love life, I love my family and friends. I want to live life to the fullest. I love helping people. It makes me happy.
Vestal__ How would you describe your style during your teenage years versus your style now?
Shirley __ I was an insecure teenager. Unusually tall and skinny, and that made me very self-conscious. So I liked big baggy clothes, lots of sweaters and sneakers. Now, I’m confident and comfortable in my body. I still like baggy clothes and sweaters, but I also like dressing up in beautiful form-fitting clothes and high heels. Overall though, I would say I’m a jeans and nice boots kind of girl.
Vestal__ What or whom are you most proud of?
Shirley __ My parents. They are my role models. They’ve worked so hard on the farm their whole lives, they’re happy, they enjoy life and they’re the kindest people I know. Not to mention how supportive they’ve always been of my siblings and I. I wouldn’t be where I am without them.
Total look ISABEL MARANT ÉTOILE, earrings LADY GREY.
AMY WESSON
(NY Model Management)
Born in Tupelo, Mississippi, the birthplace of Elvis Presley, Amy Wesson rose to the top of the fashion industry just a short while after being discovered at age sixteen while working at a shopping mall. She moved to New York City and spent the majority of her career in New York and Europe. As a high fashion model, she worked with the most prestigious designers including Versace, Chanel, Dior, and Ralph Lauren. She was also the face of Calvin Klein and secured a multi-year contract as the face of Thierry Mugler‘s best-selling fragrance, Angel. Below, Amy tells us about her most meaningful model moments.
Vestal Magazine __ What is the hardest part about being a model?
Amy Wesson __ Not knowing if the people around you actually care for you or they think they can benefit from you. That is really the challenging part of it. I am lucky to have great people in my life who look out for me. I never take this for granted. In return, I am so trusting to others and at times you could come across individuals who really do not have your best interest at heart, but I also believe in karma, so there you go.
Vestal __ When was the first time you saw your face on an advertisement or cover of a magazine while you were walking on the street?
Amy __ It was for the BCBG campaign. I’m pretty sure it was the first time I saw myself on a billboard. The advertisement was plastered everywhere. I was extremely proud of being a part of such a popular brand during the late ’90s. I really loved the brand and the visuals they put out. I had a dear friend who worked at Rolling Stones that made up a new nickname for me, “Bus Stop Amy”. It was a beautiful ha ha moment.
Vestal __ What are your go-to outfits that always make you feel good?
Amy __ I love to feel girly at times. I would have to say dresses make me feel good.
Vestal __ Who is your favorite photographer you’ve worked with in your career, and why?
Amy __ I’ve had the pleasure of working with so many brilliant photographers in the industry. But, if I have to pick one, I would have to say the legendary Richard Avedon. His eye for lighting and knowledge of composition was extraordinary. It was a teachable moment being on set with him.
Vestal __ If you hadn’t modeled, what would you be doing now?
Amy __ I really do enjoy modeling and working with creative people. If I was not modeling, I would be an interior designer or furniture maker believe it or not. I love building things and using my hands. I am quite the crafty one. I am always finding ways to keep myself occupied putting things together for the home. You can say it helps me stay relaxed as well as keeps me motivated.
Vestal __ How would you compare the industry that you’re in today to how it was when you started out? Was it more intense?
Amy __ The method is still the same so it is not intense as a comparison. But, I think the industry is more forgiving today. Social media has completely changed the way we view ourselves. Although we have so much work to do correcting all the wrong from the past, there is more social awareness which makes for a good healthy diverse industry. Today, it’s really about the message you put out and not just how pretty you look. But, there is no way I would trade in my shoebox full of polaroids. No way hosay!
Vestal __ If you could give teenage Amy advice before she embarked on her career in modeling, what would it be?
Amy __ Modeling has allowed me to really see the world with some pretty big binoculars. I take this as a blessing. At the end of the day, it is a job and you can have a successful career if you choose it to happen. I would tell my younger self to keep her eyes on the prize and that she would meet amazing people who can shape her to be the best version of herself. And also to savor each moment and take deep breaths.
Total look CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS. Opposite: Coat MARGOT92, top IRO, pants IRO, loafers REIKE NEN, earrings LADY GREY.
Photography Kevin Sinclair, Creative direction Audi Umali, Styling Renata Gar, Makeup Tadyoshi Honda, Hair Gonn Kinoshita Models Amy Wesson (NY Model Management), Shirley Mallmann, Ling Tan (The Model Co-Op)