Photos KEVIN SINCLAIR, Styling ALEXANDRA DEANGELIS
Left, Saint wears: Blouse HELLESSY, shirt DUNHILL, trousers DAVID HART, drop earring LUZ ORTIZ, hoop LUCIA PEARL, rings MODEL’S OWN, shoe FLORSHEIM. Middle, Diva Davanna wears: Jacket HELLESSY, trousers ACNE STUDIOS, necklace SARA ROBERTSSON, ring SARA, ROBERTSSON, ring LUZ ORTUZ, ring MING YU WANG, shoes STUDIO AMELIA. Right, Brodie wears: Top TIBI, trousers DUNHILL, earrings, MING YU WANG, gloves WING & WEFT, boots MODEL’S OWN.
“I knew that I wanted to be a part of an elite House, about quality instead of quantity. The House of Miyake-Mugler gave me just that, a place where my value is appreciated and cherished.”
—Saint Miyake-Mugler
Left, Brodie wears: Dress MULBERRY, trousers DAVID HART, choker MACHETE, earrings SARA ROBERTSSON, shoes DR. MARTENS. Middle, Diva Davanna wears: Jacket A. TEODORO, trousers HELLESSY, earrings SARA ROBERTSSON, ring J. HARDYMENT, ring LUZ ORTIZ, shoes BY FAR.
Blouse HELLESSY, turtleneck CAMILLA AND MARC, trousers DAVID HART, earrings DEMARSON, bracelet LUZ ORTIZ, rings MODEL’S OWN, boots DR. MARTENS. (Below image) Blouse HELLESSY, shirt DUNHILL, trousers DAVID HART, drop earring LUZ ORTIZ, hoop LUCIA PEARL, rings MODEL’S OWN.
The Iconic House of Miyake-Mugler
by Stacy Stewart Smith
After the Stonewall Uprising and before rainbow colors became a flag, the New York Ballroom community referred to transgender women as “femme queens” (also fem, slang). The term is used ambiguously, identifying anyone born male who looks and dresses like a woman. And despite the (LGBTQIA+) acronyms, it is still in casual use. The foundation of walking balls and Ballroom culture stemmed from the performance art form that evolved from drag venues where femme queens showcased their assets and talents in pageant-style exhibitions and judged battles for coveted crowns and glory. Even today, a complex system exists for ranking the winners of drag shows. The concept of “drag” is not a closeted term; it’s OUT with everything else. And although others had attempted before, it is the Emmy Award-winning ‘RuPaul’s Drag Race’ that ultimately unveiled the mystique of female impersonation and planted its fiercely competitive nature into the minds of millions of people worldwide via reality television.
The FX series ‘Pose’ tells a story of what may have happened when the Houses started, and it does an excellent job of it, but nothing compares to the real thing. You had to be there to understand. Perhaps if a best-selling novel had been written and if someone filmed a big-budget motion picture about the ball world first—the reality dramas and series would have to step it up to mirror shocking scenarios that occurred in real life. One primary reason that this did not happen might have a bit to do with the darker subject matter surrounding the Houses and various criminal activities by associated members. We can argue the details of ball history until eternity passes, but the proverbial truth is the light.
A consulting producer for ‘Pose,’ Jenny Livingston was around the real Ballroom stars back in the day. In 1991, she directed and produced a documentary film, (Paris is Burning). The film has received both criticism and acclaim and is indeed a fine work. There’s no wonder why it has been included in the Film Archive at the Library of Congress and is used to teach film, dance, and cultural studies at universities. If you want to know who started the Houses, then rent (Paris is Burning). The film rightly credits a few notable femme queen mothers of Ballroom Houses for creating the New York Ballroom scene and marks the “Old Way” from the “New Way” before significant changes in Ballroom culture, leadership and style began to manifest.
By the late 1980s, a dynamic change occurred in the ball world, and a different type of culture began to emerge in the form of “butch queen” (BQ) Houses. Even voguing (a dance performance comprised of posing as a runway model in rhythmic movements) changed and continues to evolve as I type. The original House of Miyake-Mugler is known as one of the first Houses founded by gay men who considered themselves “butch queens” in contrast to “Femme Queens.” It is also a House that promotes Black and minority male aesthetics in the “Face” category. Under the direction of the founders, from 1989 through 1991, the House of Miyake-Mugler quickly became an artistically matchless force in nearly every Ballroom category. The seeds that the founders planted have been growing for more than three decades.
Left, Saint wears: Jacket DAVID HART, dress MERLETTE, choker LUZ ORTIZ, earrings MODEL’S OWN, rings MODEL’S OWN, shoes DR. MARTENS. Right, Brodie wears: Jacket DUNHILL, dress MERLETTE, earrings MODEL'S OWN, choker YOUNG FRANKK, pendant necklace MODEL’S OWN, boots MODEL’S OWN.
Dress MULBERRY, choker MACHETE, earrings SARA ROBERTSSON.
With the addition of butch queens to ball world also came a new ranking system. A Ballroom House now consists of a father, a mother, and various other titles, usually mimicking a royal court. However, some Houses may not have a mother, and others may not have a father. According to the House of Miyake-Mugler leaders, two status levels are achievable in the new Ballroom community, and they are Legendary and Iconic. To achieve a status of “legend” means that a House or a member is something that people instantly notice, which creates unforgettable moments. A legend is a winner, a tough competitor, and a trendsetter with five-to-ten years of experience walking balls and winning grand prizes successfully. A level above the legend status is known as an “icon” who are usually ten-to-twenty years in tenure, walking, winning, and impacting the Ballroom. An icon has earned respect, leaves its mark on and off the Ballroom floor, and they should have a positive influence on others.
Today, approximately two hundred (LGBTQIA+) and cisgender men and women of various races and persuasions can boast membership in The Iconic House of Miyake Mugler. The House has nine different branches, including New York, Atlanta, the Midlands, the Carolinas, Florida, the Midwest, Canada, California, and Europe. The Iconic Overall Founding Father David Miyake-Mugler (BQ), is in charge of the entire operation. He conceived the original House out of his fascination with Egyptology stating, “In a dream, I was in ancient times within a spiral staircase dressed as Egyptian nobility. I had a vision of the most beautiful and desirable men with caramel complexions and exotic features. These were the qualities that I saw in the first mother of the House, and I set out to select other members with similar looks to him.”
The Legendary Overall Father Yusef Miyake-Mugler (BQ) joined the House in 2005. He was promoted in 2009 and appointed by the Overall Founder to preside over all the other leaders. During his tenure, Yusef has pushed a new era of Miyake-Mugler with fresh ideas to groom them to once again become risk-takers by going against the norm and opening up the doors for diversity and inclusivity. Many would say that he has played a big part in the House’s evolution in the global Ballroom scene.
Of the five historical mothers, the Legendary Overall Mother Exotic Miyake-Mugler (BQ) became a member in 2008 and accepted his current title in 2015. Exotic is an attractive asset, walking and winning the categories of Butch Queen Face and Male Figure Perfect 10’s. He is as well profoundly passionate about the young souls involved in the House and says, “My relationship with my kids is intense. I mentor them; however, I let them make their own decisions while encouraging them to use wisdom.”
Left, Brodie wears: Jacket DUNHILL, earrings MODEL'S OWN. Right, Saint wears: Jacket DAVID HART, choker LUZ ORTIZ, earrings MODEL’S OWN. Opposite: Jacket HELLESSY, trousers ACNE STUDIOS, necklace SARA ROBERTSSON, ring SARA ROBERTSSON, ring LUZ ORTUZ, ring MING YU WANG.
Over the past year, the House has enjoyed huge successes. A member of Miyake-Mugler competed and won the ($2,000.00) grand prize in a fierce voguing battle against contestants from various Houses at the 2019 Met Gala. In the same year, singer, songwriter and businesswoman Rihanna and Fenty Beauty gave away ($10,000.00) at The Iconic House of Miyake-Mugler’s Return of Porcelain ball held at Manhattan’s PlayStation Theater. The prize money is the highest amount of cash offered as a give-away in Ballroom history, and one of many acts of kindness the superstar has extended to the Ballroom community. The Legendary Overall Father Yusef, who happens to be Rihanna’s hair designer, is quoted saying, “Rihanna has been very supportive of Ballroom and especially me and the House of Miyake-Mugler. We thank her from the bottom of our hearts.” Overall, Founding Father David Miyake-Mugler adds, “In addition to the wonderful things that Rihanna and others have helped us to achieve, it is indeed an honor to have our kids featured on the cover of Vestal magazine. The opportunity is a crowning achievement. When we had our humble beginnings thirty-one years ago, we could not have conceived of being featured on the cover of a formidable publication. I want to sustain the House by continuing to expose it globally. Miyake-Mugler is already poised to take on many different mainstream platforms, and there is talk of television projects, but I cannot say more at this time. We need to have a financial focus. Opening a modeling agency might be one angle, and I still have my eyes on books and films.”
Category: Magazine Models Face as a House
Art imitates life, but in the Ballroom world, the opposite is apropos when various Houses compete for status, trophies, and cash prizes. Here on these pages, Vestal Editor-in-Chief, as our featured photographer, Kevin Sinclair, presents three members of the Iconic House of Miyake-Mugler posing in an editorial Ballroom category. Vestal took a New York moment to chat with each of these young stars via texting to acquaint our readers with what it’s like to become a member of a New York-based House, compete for trophies, and otherwise.
Front, Diva Davanna wears: Jacket HELLESSY, trousers ACNE STUDIOS, necklace SARA ROBERTSSON, ring SARA ROBERTSSON, ring LUZ ORTUZ, ring MING YU WANG. Back, Saint wears: Blouse HELLESSY, shirt DUNHILL, trousers DAVID HART, drop earring LUZ ORTIZ, hoop LUCIA PEARL.
Jacket RODEBJER, turtleneck WOLFORD, gown ADEAM.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Hello to each of you, and welcome to Vestal via text! What made you want to become a Miyake-Mugler?
Diva Davanna Miyake Mugler __ At eight years old, I was introduced to the Ballroom and took it by storm. With an incredible amount of grand prize winnings under my belt, I became the youngest legend. For many years I was a loyal member of other Houses but felt it was time to move on. In my search, I wanted a family feeling and a House where I could continue to inspire, encourage, and empower both within myself and in the Ballroom community. The House of Miyake-Mugler is the right fit.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Diva Davanna, it’s hard to imagine a young girl walking balls. Your Ballroom résumé sounds iconic; congratulations! What about you, Saint; what were your initial reasons for becoming a part of the House?
Saint Miyake Mugler __ I was introduced to the Ballroom initially in 2010. I wasn’t ready to join, so I rejected the first House that approached me and took the next few years to research different Houses and categories. I knew that I wanted to be a part of an elite House, about quality instead of quantity. The House of Miyake-Mugler gave me just that, a place where my value is appreciated and cherished.
Stacy Stewart Smith __This is a boutique House compared to some of the larger ones. Brodie, what was your initial reason for wanting to become a Miyake-Mugler?
Brodie Miyake Mugler __ I wanted to be surrounded by excellence, I wanted to be surrounded by greatness. I wanted to take a chance on getting to know a group of people who I feel share a similar interest. I also want to be with the best of the best.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ I love the feeling and the vibe you’re all giving! Tell me—how did each of you go about becoming a Miyake-Mugler? What was the induction process for you, specifically?
Diva Davanna Miyake Mugler __ My interest and conversations within the House began to grow once I left my former House. I knew becoming a Miyake-Mugler would require good work ethics and propel careers within the House. I also knew that I could be a part of this House because I could bring both.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Saint, what was the path to becoming a Miyake-Mugler like for you?
Saint Miyake Mugler __ I met someone and spent an entire day with them before discovering that they were one of the House’s officers. Call it luck or fate, but I took it as a sign and asked if they could help me become a member of Miyake-Mugler. After submitting videos of my runway effect, I was then considered a green recruit and moved forward with the process leading up to my induction.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ All of you project such refined confidence, which is a prerequisite for becoming a member of any House. Brodie, what steps did you take?
Brodie Miyake Mugler __ A few members from the House, had already tried to recruit me, so I contacted them when I became a free agent. A few months later, I was invited to an induction meeting.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Wow, it all seems so complicated, but you make it sound easy. Indeed, Miyake-Mugler has rigid standards as to whom they accept as members. What categories do each of you walk, and how many grand prize awards have you won?
Diva Davanna Miyake Mugler __ Women’s Runway, Female Figure Runway, and Legendary Runway are my favorites. I’ve walked nearly fifty-one balls and won the grand prize forty-two times or more.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ I see; well, your legacy is awe-inspiring, Diva Davanna! How many of those grand prize trophies did you score as a Miyake-Mugler?
Diva Davanna Miyake Mugler __ I haven’t won any during my time here in the House of Miyake-Mugler. I just joined last year, and with the pandemic, balls have been slow to happen.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ I understand; we are posing during a tough time. Certainly, you will be more productive in the coming year. Saint, do tell Vestal’s readers about your categories and winnings.
Saint Miyake Mugler __ My category is All American Runway. I’ve won about six or seven grand prizes since I’ve been a part of the House. That number would be higher if I walked more frequently. My biggest win came in February 2020, when I won my first cash grand prize. I officially became a part of the ($1000 Winners Club), significant for the All American Runway category.
Left, Diva Davanna wears: Jacket HELLESSY, necklace SARA ROBERTSSON. Right, Saint wears: Blouse HELLESSY, shirt DUNHILL, hoop LUCIA PEARL.
Left, Brodie wears: Top TIBI, trousers DUNHILL, earrings, MING YU WANG, boots MODEL’S OWN. Middle, Diva Davanna wears: Jacket HELLESSY, trousers ACNE STUDIOS, necklace SARA ROBERTSSON, ring SARA, ROBERTSSON, ring LUZ ORTUZ, ring MING YU WANG, shoes STUDIO AMELIA. Right, Saint wears: Blouse HELLESSY, shirt DUNHILL, trousers DAVID HART, drop earring LUZ ORTIZ, hoop LUCIA PEARL, rings MODEL’S OWN, shoe FLORSHEIM.
Brodie Miyake-Mugler __ Yes, I walk All American Runway, but I’ve walked and won a few fashion categories as well. I can say that I’ve won over nine grand prizes, including cash prizes for Runway. I also won Best Dressed at the taping of the HBO series ‘Legendary’ earlier this year.
Stacy Stewart Smith _ Okay, I’m impressed! Now can each of you tell us how long you have been in the House? What do you plan to do with all you’ve learned from being a Miyake-Mugler?
Diva Davanna Miyake-Mugler __ I joined the House of Miyake-Mugler last year. I’ve learned that membership is more than just a House in the Ballroom community; they have taken me in as their own. It is as real as family. Today at twenty-years-old, I’m a runway and print model, a college student, business owner, community activist, and now an entrepreneur, so I continue to make my mark. I head up several give-back programs. For More than ten years, I have worked to help “Back 2 School Giveaway,” and for the past six years, I have been a sponsor for the “Pillows 4 Change” project, where I sew pillows for the homeless. I must continue to do the tireless work in the community because I enjoy giving from the heart. The Miyake-Mugler family is an example for me to follow, and with their help and support, I will continue my community and charitable efforts.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Saint, what about you? What will you do with the knowledge gained from your time as a House member?
Saint Miyake-Mugler __ I’ve been a part of the House for about four years now, and it’s been a great experience. It is my first House and my last because I do not see myself in any other House. Being a part of Miyake-Mugler has taught me that everyone’s role and niche matters. We all represent the (Miyake-Mugler) brand, and how we carry ourselves reflects the House. I hope to shed some positive light on the scene and community and help guide and mentor future new members.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Setting examples and lending guidance are amiable qualities to possess. What about you, Brodie; what will you do with all this Miyake-Mugler presence, you exude?
Brodie Miyake Mugler __ Thank you! I’ve been a Miyake-Mugler for three years now, and I plan on continuing the legacy of being undeniable “Porcelain.”
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Okay, just so that Vestal readers understand, what is this Miyake-Mugler Porcelain of which you speak?
Brodie Miyake Mugler __ To be undeniably, Porcelain is to be a part of a movement, a Miyake-Mugler movement where you’re family-oriented, caring, and loving to your community. It’s a movement where you exude excellence, integrity, elegance, intelligence, and of course, beauty both inside and out. I want to continue to teach and motivate the generation after me to do the same as well. I also want to use the core values and fundamentals that I’ve learned here to continue to become a better man, a better leader, a better entrepreneur, and a better creative.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ The Overall Founder David has explained that the concept behind you guys wearing dresses and skirts for this shoot is an idea developed out of the Ballroom scene known as “Gender Bending,” where butch queens wear women’s clothes. It’s not a Ballroom category, but it is acceptable and chic. What do you think about wearing a dress or a skirt in public? Would you personally choose the full versions that you’re wearing here on the pages of Vestal, or would you prefer something else?
Brodie Miyake Mugler __ Personally, it’s not my style to wear skirts in public, but I’m very open-minded. I can’t say I wouldn’t wear one out, but I do think it’s totally fine, fashion-forward, and that it’s all about preference. (Laughing) I prefer something a little shorter to match my personality; I believe a shorter length skirt would go perfectly with my high top boots showcasing an edgy vintage look.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Saint, what do you feel about wearing a skirt?
Saint Miyake-Mugler __ I wouldn’t personally wear a skirt in public in my day-to-day life unless I was on my way to a ball. As far as the androgyny of the dresses we wear in photos captured for Vestal; I’m entirely comfortable with them.
Stewart Smith Smith __ I think that you both still look like men in the photographs. Our stylist did a great job! Diva Davanna, since you were born female and can freely wear pants and skirts, I would like to have your opinion. What do you think about men wearing dresses or skirts?
Diva Davanna Miyake-Mugler __ I LOVE IT! To me, that is a form of self-expression. The world we live in today has changed so much; it has allowed people to live in their truth and express themselves; however they want.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Speaking of expression and change, how would you feel if the House of Miyake-Mugler branched into model and talent representation as an agency?
Brodie Miyake Mugler __ If the House was to branch into a model and talent agency, I don’t think I would want to be on board unless the leaders separate the agency from the actual Ballroom House walkers. I feel in the past, we’ve had people come to the House for all of the wrong reasons, clout, connections, and for what the House can do for them. It would be harder to differentiate between the people here for the House and those who only want to help their careers by merging the two. I also don’t want our Ballroom walkers, known for walking balls and known for booking gigs, to be overshadowed and overwhelmed by the people here to work and be a part of the industry. If we don’t separate the two, we will lose some of our core values and the House’s true essence. I feel that we wouldn’t be family-oriented enough, which might cause a significant House turnover.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Saint?
Saint Miyake-Mugler __ It’s just my opinion, but I don’t think it would hurt us. I love the idea of the House of Miyake-Mugler, forming a model and talent section. That would make us stand out more from the other Houses, giving us our forte as long as the House doesn’t lose sight of the Ballroom community due to putting so much energy into the project.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Diva Davanna, what do you think about this idea? Do you see the House owning a modeling agency as a positive or a negative?
Diva Davanna Miyake-Mugler __ I feel that our House would offer astonishing opportunities for models and artists. It’s time for an agency that provides diversity as to race and gender. These qualities are highly lacking in the current modeling industry, and we need it now more than ever.
Stacy Stewart Smith __ Well, all these statements reveal the care and devotion you young members have for the House you represent. Always remember that nothing can take away something that you build with love. I am glad that the House of Miyake-Mugler presented you to Vestal, and may you all enjoy happiness and prosperity individually and collectively. It is fulfilling to see something that started so many years ago blossom so beautifully. The future is yours! Thank you all!
Sent from OUR iPhones
Top TIBI, trousers DUNHILL, earrings MING YU WANG, gloves WING & WEFT.
THE PORCELAIN MANIFESTO
In the colonnade of an Egyptian temple, the principle eunuch carries a golden tray and walks haughtily toward a central aisle. Upon the tray is an object that cannot be seen because it is translucent and lies nearly flat aside a bottle carved from a large gem and filled with a rare and precious essence. The eunuch is clad only in a loincloth spun of pure gold. His skin is flawless; it glistens in the sun, and shadows are cast from his toned body. Muscles protrude as his sculpted form passes the colossal beams. He is living art that leaves the aroma of lily in the distance. His eyes are almond-shaped—ornate with tracings of coal, and they bat, with the gaze of an eagle as he struts forward.
The sacred edifice is made of alabaster and limestone; it is covered with engraved and painted hieroglyphics. Atop it, he spots the symbols representing his priestly House of Miyake-Mugler. A strong masculine presence waits at the top of the stairs. It is Ramses Miyake-Mugler disguised in a white hooded cloak; a royal profile betrays him. The eunuch smiles as their eyes meet. Ramses raises his thick manicured brows and motions the eunuch to approach. They are alone and stand still for a moment, then turn in unison slowly toward the gilded entrance.
Pharaoh disrobes, and the eunuch bows to his naked form. The golden tray is placed on a marble slab, the odd bottle is turned over, and the rare essence is poured into the eunuch’s hands. Ramses lies upon the slab, and the solution is rubbed gently upon his face. His skin turns amber and appears as glass. The eunuch whispers something and then places the previously concealed object upon Pharaoh’s emolliated face. He then takes out a tool and proceeds to carve gently into the translucent form creating a mask in the royal image.
The mask was then tried in fire and made perfect. It would be called ‘Porcelain’ and become the mold from which all members of the royal court are chosen. Without possessing the face and the essence of ‘Porcelain,’ a member was not allowed at court; they were denied an audience with Pharaoh.
PORCELAIN: IT’S A MOVEMENT.
A MOVEMENT CREATING ROYALTY IN THE ICONIC HOUSE OF MIYAKE-MUGLER.
LEARN IT, LIVE IT, AND LOVE IT.
THE ORIGINAL FACE,
THE ORACLE
THE MOVEMENT
Photography Kevin Sinclair Stylist Alexandra DeAngelis Make up and hair Koji Ichikawa Talent: Saint, Diva Davanna, Brodie
Starring (in no official order) Overall Mother Legendary Exotic @the_hilton, Joel @jovxl, Maji @majiclaire, Elle @manuesoum, Legendary Davanna @_divadavanna, Icon Dominique @itsdchristian, Myles @porterico, Malik @malikmiyakemugler, Lil David @meetkingd, Kash Doll @kashfromParis, Paul @simple_dudee, Antonio @antonio_miyake_mugler, Chanel @isthatchanelrose, Legendary Vivika @vivikawestwood, Kaylina, Supermodel Duckie @duckiethot, Tati @xofficialtatix, Legendary Tank @mackielife, Soleila @soleilachaou, Jojo @jojo_mugler, Legendary Chris, Michelle @michelleten, Kendrick @royrudeboy, Diamond @thee_diamondxavier, Overall Father Legendary Yusef @yusefhairnyc, Legendary Prince @miyakeprince, Margie @margieplus, Eyen @dutchboi_100, Royston @officialRoyston, Diva @divamimu, Mikey @_iammickey_, Benji @benjifetch, Arya @arya_mugler, Directed by Loic Maes @loicmagik, Produced by Stacey Thiel @staceylinn918 for Good Company @goodcopix, Director of photography Franck Tymezuk @Tymezuk, Production design Andrea Stanley @andra_stanley_, @MargiePlus - 'Face'
Available on iTunes
https://music.apple.com/us/album/margie-plus/1436079905
License: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
#PORCELAIN #MIYAKEMUGLER #Vogue #NYC #Ballroom #MOMENTMAKINGMIYAKEMUGLER #Atlanta #Philadelphia #charlotte #Miami #ranaverse